Sumo, Japan’s national sport, is more than just a sport. It is a sacred traditional culture with over 1,500 years of history, originating from Shinto rituals. The intense clashes that the wrestlers (Rikishi) unleash on the Dohyo (ring) overwhelm spectators, and their power is an unforgettable experience.
This article is a complete guide to fully enjoying a sumo match at its sacred home, the Ryogoku Kokugikan. To ensure that even first-time sumo fans from overseas can enjoy the experience, this guide provides a detailed breakdown of everything you need to know—from the basic rules, how to buy tickets, the best food at the Kokugikan, and spectator etiquette, to even visiting a morning practice to see the wrestlers’ daily lives.
- Perfect for Beginners! Basic Sumo Rules and How to Enjoy
- How to Buy Sumo Tickets
- How to Enjoy Ryogoku Kokugikan, the Home of Sumo, to the Fullest
- Not Just for Watching! Sightseeing Spots in the Ryogoku Area
- See the Daily Life of a Wrestler! Visiting a Sumo Stable’s Morning Practice
- Check Before You Go! Sumo Viewing Manners and Cautions
- Step into the World of Sumo: A Weaving of Tradition and Power
Perfect for Beginners! Basic Sumo Rules and How to Enjoy
Even if it’s your first time watching sumo, you can enjoy it many times more just by knowing a few basics.
Winning and Losing is Very Simple
The rules of sumo are extremely clear.
- Push the opponent out of the Dohyo (the circular ring, approx. 4.55m in diameter).
- Make any part of the opponent’s body, other than the soles of their feet, touch the ground.
The winner is decided by either of these. However, there are also illegal moves called “Kinjite” (forbidden hands), such as grabbing the opponent’s hair or attacking vital points.
The Main Highlight: The “Tachi-ai” (The Initial Charge)
The moment at the start of the match when both wrestlers face off and charge at each other simultaneously is called the “Tachi-ai.” This charge lasts only a split second, but it is a critical moment that can greatly influence the outcome of the match. It is arguably the most exciting moment, where the wrestlers’ fighting spirits collide.
Wrestler Personalities and the Diverse “Kimarite” (Winning Techniques)
There are no weight classes in sumo. Matches where a smaller wrestler takes on a much larger opponent are just like “David vs. Goliath.”
Wrestlers have their own specialty styles, such as “Yotsu-zumo,” where they grapple by grabbing the opponent’s “mawashi” (the belt worn around the waist), or “Tsuki-oshi-zumo,” which relies on thrusting and pushing. There are 82 officially recognized “Kimarite” (winning techniques) that describe how a match was won, with “Oshidashi” (push out) and “Yorikiri” (force out) being the most common. A key part of enjoying sumo is paying attention to who won and with what technique.
How to Buy Sumo Tickets
The Grand Sumo Tournament (Honbasho) is held six times a year, in odd-numbered months. In Tokyo, it’s held at Ryogoku Kokugikan in January, May, and September. It is also held in Osaka (March), Nagoya (July), and Fukuoka (November).
Types of Seating
There are several types of seats, each with its own charm.
- Sunakaburi-seki (Ringside Seats): The most powerful seats, right next to the dohyo, where you can feel the wrestlers’ breathing.
- Masu-seki (Box Seats): The traditional Japanese viewing style, sitting on cushions in a boxed-off area, typically for groups of 4.
- Chair Seats: Relatively reasonable and an easy way to watch the matches.
Where to Buy Tickets
Tickets are very popular, so buying them early is recommended. Check the official website in advance for the release date.
- Ticket Oosumo (Official Japanese sales site)
- Ticket Oosumo (Official English site)
- Various ticket agencies (Ticket Pia, Lawson Ticket, etc.)
How to Enjoy Ryogoku Kokugikan, the Home of Sumo, to the Fullest
On match day, arrive early to soak in the atmosphere of the Kokugikan.
Access
Access to the Kokugikan is very convenient.
- Approx. 2-minute walk from the West Exit of Ryogoku Station (JR Sobu Line)
- Approx. 5-minute walk from Exit A3 of Ryogoku Station (Toei Oedo Line)
Explore History at the Sumo Museum
On the 1st floor of the Kokugikan, there is a Sumo Museum with free admission. Valuable materials related to sumo history are on display. Stopping by before the matches begin will deepen your understanding of the sport.
A Must-Try! Savoring Kokugikan Gourmet
Inside the Kokugikan, you can enjoy gourmet food perfect for watching sumo.
- Chanko-nabe: A nutritious hot pot dish famous as the food of sumo wrestlers. You can easily taste authentic chanko at the Kokugikan.
- Yakitori (Grilled Chicken): Known as a Kokugikan specialty, it’s famous for being delicious even when cold.
- Various Bento Boxes and Snacks: A wide variety of bento boxes are available, including sushi.
- Matcha Soft Serve Ice Cream: The rich matcha flavor is perfect for those who want a taste of Japan.
Enjoy Souvenir Shopping Too
The souvenir shops inside the arena are stocked with a wide variety of unique sumo-related goods.
- “Tenugui” (hand towels) and “Yunomi” (tea cups) featuring wrestlers’ names.
- Figurines and clear files of popular wrestlers.
- Exclusive merchandise you can only get here.
Not Just for Watching! Sightseeing Spots in the Ryogoku Area
Near the Kokugikan, there are other attractive spots where you can experience Japanese culture.
- Edo-Tokyo Museum: A popular museum where you can learn about the history and culture of Edo and Tokyo. (*Currently closed for large-scale renovations. Scheduled to reopen during fiscal year 2025.)
- The Sumida Hokusai Museum: Enjoy the works of the world-famous ukiyo-e artist, Katsushika Hokusai.
- Sumida River Terrace: A promenade along the Sumida River. Spend a relaxing time enjoying the beautiful scenery.
See the Daily Life of a Wrestler! Visiting a Sumo Stable’s Morning Practice
Tours are also available to see the rigorous daily training that is the source of the wrestlers’ strength.
Wrestlers live communally in a “Sumo-beya” (sumo stable) and dedicate themselves to rigorous training every day. From basic exercises like “Shiko” (leg stomps) and “Teppo” (practice thrusts) to intense sparring where wrestlers clash, their serious dedication is a sight to behold.
How to Book a Practice Visit and Important Rules
It is best to refrain from contacting the stables directly. The common way is to use an official tour organized by a tourism association.
- Reservations: Tours are available for booking on websites like the Sumida City Tourism Association.
- Etiquette: Practice is sacred. Watch quietly, refrain from private conversations so as not to disturb the wrestlers’ concentration. Flash photography is prohibited. Please also avoid wearing perfume. It is essential to follow the staff’s instructions and show respect.
Check Before You Go! Sumo Viewing Manners and Cautions
Let’s learn a few manners so that everyone can enjoy watching the matches comfortably.
- Cheering: Cheering by clapping is welcome. However, avoid loud yelling or jeering that could interfere with the match.
- Photography: Photography is allowed, but the use of a flash is strictly prohibited. It distracts the wrestlers and is very dangerous.
- Seating: You must take off your shoes in the Masu-seki (box seats). Space is limited, so please store large luggage in coin lockers and be considerate of those around you.
- Food and Drink: Please dispose of all trash from food and drinks purchased in the venue in the designated areas.
Step into the World of Sumo: A Weaving of Tradition and Power
Sumo is a thrilling competition where the highly trained bodies and techniques of wrestlers collide. At the same time, every single movement is imbued with Japan’s long history and culture.
The ways to enjoy it are endless: find a favorite wrestler, pay attention to the variety of winning techniques, or just soak in the atmosphere of the Kokugikan. Use this article as your guide and come experience the profound world of sumo for yourself. An unforgettable sense of awe and excitement is surely waiting for you.
