As redevelopment progresses in central Tokyo and modern buildings rise, there is a charming area that still strongly retains its old-fashioned “Shitamachi” (old downtown) atmosphere. This is the “Yanesen” area, an acronym for the neighborhoods of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi.
The Yanesen area is popular with many tourists as a spot where one can experience the Shitamachi charm of Tokyo. Yanaka, in particular, is one of the few areas that escaped war damage. Because many people have lived here for generations, its traditional streetscape and culture have been carefully preserved.
At the heart of the Yanesen area is “Yanaka Ginza,” a vibrant shopping street loved by locals. It’s lined with old-fashioned delicatessens (sōzai-ya) and unique cafes, offering delicious “street food” at affordable prices. Furthermore, the town is also known as “Cat Town,” dotted with merchandise shops and cafes that are irresistible to cat lovers.
A short walk away, you’ll also find highlights like Nezu Shrine, popular for its photogenic tunnel of red torii gates, and Yanaka Cemetery, a tranquil and historic space.
This article proposes a classic half-day model course to efficiently enjoy this fascinating area. For first-time visitors to Yanaka, we provide a complete guide with a specific route, detailed access information, operating hours and fees for each spot, and practical TIPS for a comfortable stroll. Let’s embark on a soothing journey to experience the warm charm of old-world Tokyo.
- 1. Basic Info & Access to Tokyo’s “Yanesen” Shitamachi Area
- 2. The Classic Half-Day Model Course for Yanaka Ginza & Nezu Shrine (10:00–15:00)
- 3. Model Course Details: A Tour of Historic Spots with Shitamachi Charm
- 4. Model Course Details: Delicious Street Food Grazing in Yanaka Ginza
- 5. Model Course Details: Art and Healing in “Cat Town”
- 6. Model Course Details: A Tranquil Walk Through History and Culture
- 7. Practical TIPS and Cautions for Enjoying Your Yanaka Stroll
- 8. A Soothing Yanesen Journey to Experience the Charm of Old-World Tokyo
1. Basic Info & Access to Tokyo’s “Yanesen” Shitamachi Area
The Yanaka Ginza area is characterized by a nostalgic atmosphere that sets it apart from modern Tokyo (like Shibuya or Shinjuku). This town has resisted redevelopment, allowing old houses and local shops to remain, creating a scene that feels reminiscent of the past despite being in the city center.
“Yanesen” is an acronym for the neighborhoods of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi, each with its own unique history and culture. It’s a place where history and modern culture merge, allowing you to enjoy new discoveries and encounters.
Detailed Area Access (Nearest Station Info)
There are three main stations that serve as hubs for sightseeing in the Yanaka area. For this half-day model course, we recommend “Nezu Station” as the starting point and “Nippori Station” as the convenient end point for your return journey.
| Spot | Nearest Station | Line | Exit & Walk Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nezu Shrine (Near start point) | Nezu Station | Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line | 5–10 min |
| Yanaka Ginza (West side) | Sendagi Station | Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line | 3–5 min |
| Yanaka Ginza (East side) | Nippori Station | JR Yamanote/Keihin-Tohoku/Joban Lines, Keisei Line | 5–10 min |
| Yanaka Cemetery (Near end point) | Nippori Station | JR Yamanote Line, etc. | 3 min |
<Access Examples from Major Tokyo Areas>
- From Shinjuku/Shibuya: A smooth route is to take the JR Yamanote Line to “Nishi-Nippori Station,” transfer to the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line, and head to “Nezu Station.”
- From Ueno: It’s about a 15-20 minute walk from Ueno Park to Nezu Shrine. Walking while enjoying the old residential streetscape is also recommended.
2. The Classic Half-Day Model Course for Yanaka Ginza & Nezu Shrine (10:00–15:00)
This model course starts at 10:00 AM from Tokyo Metro Nezu Station and is an approximately 5-hour journey that includes historical walks, street food grazing, and cat encounters, ending at JR Nippori Station. Nippori Station is on the JR Yamanote Line, making it convenient for moving on to your afternoon plans (like Ueno Park or Akihabara).
| Time | Spot | Activity | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10:00 | Nezu Station (Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line) | Start of the trip | |
| 10:10-11:00 | Nezu Shrine | Historical walk, photo op at the Senbon Torii | Old-world shrine experience |
| 11:15-12:30 | Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street | Enjoy street food (in place of lunch) | Savoring delicious local food |
| 12:30-14:00 | Around Yanaka Ginza | Enjoying “Cat Town” (cat cafe, goods, painting) | Encountering art and sundries |
| 14:10-15:00 | Yanaka Cemetery | Stroll through the historic cemetery, visit Tenno-ji | A streetscape rich in history |
| 15:10 | Nippori Station (JR Yamanote Line, etc.) | End of the trip | Good access to Ueno/Akihabara |
3. Model Course Details: A Tour of Historic Spots with Shitamachi Charm
10:00 Start the Walk from Tokyo Metro “Nezu Station”
The starting point for our journey is Nezu Station on the Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line. This area is easily accessible from Ueno by taking the JR Yamanote Line to Nishi-Nippori Station and transferring to the subway.
10:10-11:00 Nezu Shrine: A Photogenic and Historic “Power Spot”
A 5-10 minute walk from Nezu Station, Nezu Shrine is a historic shrine founded in 1705. As an “old-world shrine experience,” it’s a fitting place to start a heartwarming journey in Japan.
Must-See Highlight: Senbon Torii (Thousand Torii Gates)
Especially popular at Nezu Shrine is the “Senbon Torii.” Similar to Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, the sight of the tunnel of red torii gates is extremely photogenic. A key charm is that it’s relatively uncrowded, allowing you to pray and take photos at a leisurely pace.
Seasonal Highlight: Azaleas
Nezu Shrine is also famous for its azaleas. Around April each year, about 3,000 azaleas of 100 different varieties bloom beautifully on the grounds. The “Tsutsuji Matsuri” (Azalea Festival) is held, attracting many Tokyo residents.
History and Atmosphere
It is historically old, and its tranquil atmosphere is soothing. There are also many cafes and art galleries in the vicinity, making it fun to explore the small back alleys.
<Nezu Shrine Facility Information>
- Address: 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 113-0031
- Access: Approx. 5–10 min walk from Nezu Station (Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line)
- Gate Hours: 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM (May vary by season or event)
- Closed: Open all year
- Fee: Free (No admission fee) (*Azalea garden is fee-based during the festival)
- External Link: Nezu Shrine Official Website
4. Model Course Details: Delicious Street Food Grazing in Yanaka Ginza
It’s about a 15-minute walk from Nezu Shrine to Yanaka Ginza shopping street. Taking the “Hebi-michi” (Snake Road) (described later) is also a fun route. Many shops on the street open around 11 AM, so visiting after Nezu Shrine is an ideal schedule.
11:15-12:30 Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street: Shitamachi Side Dishes and Street Food
Yanaka Ginza is a shopping street in Taito-ku, Tokyo, brimming with Shitamachi charm and loved by many tourists and locals. There are many “Sōzai-ya” (delicatessens) where locals buy their daily meals, and tourists can enjoy these side dishes as street food. The main appeal of this street is the ability to enjoy delicious food at affordable prices.
Yūyake Dandan (Sunset Stairs)
The staircase at the east entrance of the shopping street (near Nippori Station) is called “Yūyake Dandan.” The sunset view from here is spectacular, making it a popular spot for visitors.
<Yanaka Ginza Information>
- Address: Vicinity of 3-13-1 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-0001
- Access: Approx. 3 min walk from Sendagi Station (Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line) / Approx. 5 min walk from JR Nippori Station
- Hours: Varies by store, but many are open 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM
- Closed: Varies by store (Many are closed on Mondays)
- External Link: Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street Official Website
Must-Try! Recommended Street Food in Yanaka Ginza
The joy of strolling is food-hopping, and while it’s easy to get full, try to enjoy various types a little at a time.
Niku no Sato: The Classic Fried Deli Food
This is a popular shop you should visit first to enjoy Japanese “sōzai” in Yanaka Ginza. Known for its “Yanaka Menchi,” this minced meat cutlet, overflowing with juicy meat, has an unforgettable taste.
- Recommendation: The juicy “Yanaka Menchi-katsu.” The balance of the crispy breading and juicy meat is exquisite. Croquettes and Karaage (fried chicken) are also popular.
- Price: Affordable at around 100–300 JPY per item.
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 7:30 PM
- Closed: Mondays
Yakiya: “Ika-yaki,” A Rarity in Tokyo
A rare shop in Tokyo where you can taste “Ika-yaki” (grilled squid), a street food from the Kansai region made by grilling squid in a flour and egg batter.
- Recommendation: Ika-yaki topped with mayonnaise.
- Price: Around 260–300 JPY.
- Hours: 11:00 AM – 7:30 PM
- Closed: Mondays
Koshizuka: A Juicy Treat from the Butcher
A famous butcher shop that draws fans from all over Tokyo.
- Recommendation: The juicy and satisfying American hot dog or grilled skewers.
- Price: Around 400–500 JPY, slightly pricier than other street foods.
- Take-home: Not ideal for street food, but their famous “Corned Beef” is a popular souvenir for Tokyo residents.
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 7:00 PM
- Closed: Wednesdays
Yanaka Shippoya: Cute Cat Tail Doughnuts
This shop sells baked doughnuts shaped like cat tails, fitting for Yanaka, the “Cat Town.”
- Recommendation: They come in various patterns and flavors, but the cute designs like “Tora” (tiger-striped) are popular.
- Variety: 13–14 types are always available. Popular items can sell out, so an early visit is recommended.
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (until 7:00 PM on Sat/Sun/Holidays)
- Closed: Irregularly
Yanaka Senbei Shinsendo: Old-Fashioned Japanese Rice Crackers
A “senbei” (rice cracker) shop, once common in old Tokyo, is now a rare sight.
- Recommendation: You can buy individual crackers from about 10 varieties, from sweet sugar-coated ones to unique sesame or shrimp flavors.
- Price: Around 130 JPY per cracker.
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 5:30 PM
- Closed: Tuesdays
Sit-Down Japanese Lunch Spots
Food-hopping is fun, but for those who want to sit down and enjoy a traditional Japanese meal, here are three popular restaurants. All are popular with locals seeking healthy meals and reasonable prices.
Soba Azegami: Casual Soba Noodles
You can enjoy traditional soba noodle dishes, long-loved by the common people of Tokyo.
- Recommendation: Lunch sets that include tempura or tonkatsu-don (pork cutlet bowl) (1,500–1,800 JPY), or a simple soba dish (700 JPY).
- Hours: 11:00 AM – 9:00 PM (L.O. 8:30 PM)
- Closed: Mondays (and every other Tuesday)
TAYORI: Healthy Set Meals at a Kominka Cafe
A “Teishoku” (set meal) is recommended at this cafe, which has a warm atmosphere in a renovated “Kominka” (old Japanese house).
- Menu: A traditional Japanese set menu (approx. 1,500 JPY) that includes a main dish (meat or fish), several vegetable side dishes, rice, and miso soup.
- Atmosphere: You may have to wait when it’s crowded, but you can do so while viewing the retro garden decorated with plants and flowers.
- Hours: Wed–Sat 12:00 PM – 8:00 PM (Sun/Holidays until 6:00 PM)
- Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays
Yamagishi: Affordable Eel in Yanaka Ginza
A popular restaurant that continues to offer eel (unagi), traditionally a common food for Tokyoites, at reasonable prices.
- Menu: You can enjoy “Unaju” or “Unadon” (eel glazed with sweet soy sauce over rice) for 1,000–3,000 JPY.
- Hours: 11:00 AM – 2:00 PM / 5:00 PM – 8:00 PM
- Closed: Tuesdays
5. Model Course Details: Art and Healing in “Cat Town”
The Yanaka area has relatively light traffic and is densely residential, making it an easy environment for cats to live in. As a result, the shopping street has many cat-themed products and facilities where you can interact with cats. This area is truly full of charm, a treasure trove of art and sundries.
12:30-14:00 Enjoying the Charms of Cats around Yanaka Ginza
Cafe Nekoemon: Original Maneki-neko Painting Experience
In Japan, a cat raising its paw to wash its face is seen as beckoning good fortune, and is beloved as the “Maneki-neko” (beckoning cat).
- Experience: You can paint your own original design on an unglazed Maneki-neko doll. This is also recommended for those who love one-of-a-kind items like handmade accessories and lifestyle goods.
- Price (Experience): A small doll is 1,620 JPY, a large doll is 2,160 JPY (drinks/food separate).
- Food/Drink: You can also enjoy cute, cat-themed drinks and sweets (Drinks 400–500 JPY, Dessert sets 700–800 JPY).
- Hours: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM
- Closed: Mondays
- External Link: Cafe Nekoemon Official Website (via Yanakado, the operating company)
Yadorigi Cafe: Interacting with Rescue Cats
This cafe is home to “rescue cats” that were once pets but lost their homes.
- Features: You can actually interact with the cats, making it an irresistible spot for cat lovers. Although they are rescue cats, many are very friendly.
- Price: 1 hour w/ 1 drink for 1,200 JPY; 2 hours for 2,200 JPY.
- Hours: 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM
- Closed: Mondays, Tuesdays
- External Link: Yadorigi Cafe Official Website
6. Model Course Details: A Tranquil Walk Through History and Culture
After a lively time in Yanaka Ginza, head to Yanaka Cemetery, a 5-10 minute walk away. Japan has many beautiful streetscapes rich in history and culture, and Yanaka Cemetery is one of them.
14:10-15:00 Yanaka Cemetery: A Quiet Space of History and Greenery
Yanaka Cemetery is a traditional cemetery established in 1874, where many historical figures and cultural icons are laid to rest.
Scenery: It is located on high ground, also serving as a viewpoint overlooking the Yanaka Ginza area.
Cherry Blossoms: The main street within the cemetery, “Sakura-dori,” is lined with cherry trees, allowing you to enjoy a “cherry blossom tunnel” in spring. It’s less crowded than nearby Ueno Park and recommended for those who want to view the blossoms leisurely.
Tomb of Tokugawa Yoshinobu: The tomb of Tokugawa Yoshinobu, the last shogun of the Edo shogunate, is also within this cemetery.
Nearby Historical Spot: Tenno-ji Temple
After strolling through the cemetery, you will find Tenno-ji Temple as you head toward Nippori Station. Yanaka Cemetery was once part of this temple. Here, you can enjoy the solemn view of a large bronze Buddha statue set against seasonal trees.
<Yanaka Cemetery Information>
- Address: 7-5-24 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo 110-0001
- Hours: Open 24 hours
- Fee: Free
15:10 Finish at JR “Nippori Station”
It is about a 3-minute walk from Yanaka Cemetery to Nippori Station. The end point of this model course, Nippori Station, is on the JR Yamanote Line, making it very convenient for traveling to major Tokyo spots (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ueno, Akihabara, etc.).
<Nearby Spots for Later>
- Ueno Park: Approx. 4 min (2 stops) from Nippori Sta. to Ueno Sta. on the JR Yamanote Line. Enjoy museums, the zoo (pandas), and seasonal flowers (cherry blossoms, autumn leaves).
- Akihabara: Approx. 10 min from Nippori Sta. to Akihabara Sta. on the JR Yamanote Line. Experience the electric town and Japanese subculture (anime, games, idols).
7. Practical TIPS and Cautions for Enjoying Your Yanaka Stroll
While the Yanaka Ginza area is becoming a tourist destination, it remains a Shitamachi (old downtown) where local residents’ lives are firmly rooted. Here are some practical tips for a comfortable and smooth experience that differs from sightseeing in other urban centers.
1. Payment: Cash is Recommended
In the Yanaka Ginza shopping street, many small shops, especially delis (sōzai-ya) and street food vendors, often do not accept credit cards or electronic money.
- Recommended Budget: To fully enjoy this half-day course, it’s safe to have about 10,000 JPY in cash per person.
- Small Bills: Local small shops (especially street food stalls) may prefer not to take large bills (like 10,000 JPY notes). Preparing plenty of 1,000 JPY notes will make transactions smoother.
2. Street Food Manners: The Habit of Stopping to Eat
In Japanese shopping streets, eating while walking can be seen as bad manners.
- The Basic: Eat your purchased street food while standing in the shop’s designated area or in a spot where you are not blocking traffic.
- Trash: As a rule, give your trash back to the shop where you bought the food or dispose of it in a designated trash bin. Never litter.
3. Tips for an Efficient Walk: Using a Local Guide
Yanaka has a deep history and a complex web of alleys, so there are many charming spots that tourists might easily miss.
- Benefit of a Local Guide: With a guide who knows the area well, you can gain a deeper understanding of the town’s history—having survived WWII and major earthquakes—and discover hidden gems known only to locals.
- Tour Example: A 3.5-hour tour like the “Yanaka History Walking Tour” allows you to efficiently learn about history and culture while enjoying local snacks and sweets ($65.47 / approx. 9,000 JPY).
4. Best Times to Visit
The best time to enjoy Yanaka Ginza is between 11:00 AM and 12:00 PM, when most shops are open.
- Times to Avoid: It’s best to avoid visiting before 10:00 AM or after 7:00 PM, as fewer shops will be open.
5. Other Charming Detours (Local Recommendations)
If you have extra time, you can add these spots to your itinerary to experience local culture and art.
Hebi-michi (Snake Road)
This is a narrow, winding alley (like a snake), as its name suggests, located on the way from Sendagi Station to Yanaka Cemetery. It’s dotted with houses retaining a Showa-era feel, as well as renovated cafes and art shops, making it perfect for photos. Allow 30 minutes to 1 hour for this stroll.
Ueno Sakuragi Atari
This is a complex of three “kominka” (old Japanese houses) built in 1938 that have been renovated. It houses a beer hall serving craft beer, a bakery, and specialty shops for salt and olive oil. It’s located near Yanaka Cemetery, making it ideal to visit in the 2:00 PM hour along with your cemetery walk.
CRAFT SAKE STAND Yanaka Junmaiya
This is a sake specialty shop and standing bar in the Yanaka Ginza shopping street. You can taste “junmai” sake from all over Japan and casually experience local sake culture, even during the day.
8. A Soothing Yanesen Journey to Experience the Charm of Old-World Tokyo
The Yanesen area, centered around Yanaka Ginza, is a precious region that steadfastly preserves its traditional lifestyle, warm humanity, and history, even as Tokyo rapidly changes.
Calming your mind at Nezu Shrine with its photogenic red torii gates, tasting exquisite local street food on the vibrant shopping street, and being healed by adorable cat motifs and cafes—this is a time that will make you forget the hustle and bustle of the city.
A walk through Yanaka is more than just sightseeing; it’s a special experience that brings you into contact with Tokyo’s deep history, culture, and the daily lives of its local people. When you visit Tokyo, be sure to add this “Shitamachi” of old-world charm, Yanesen, to your itinerary. It will surely become a wonderful and lasting memory.
The Yanesen area, where time seems to have stopped, is like a spiritual oasis, quietly asking us what is truly important.
